Okay guys, being a fan both of Seiko's one button chronos and the 9T82 kinetic chronos, I went ahead and bit the bullet on the new 40th Anniversary Chronograph. Hopefully some of you read the two articles that I previously mentioned as they do provide a nice historical background to some of the origins of this watch.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/message?forumid=78440&messageid=1011333342
http://www.pmwf.com/cgi-bin/ForumArchive/webbbs_config.cgi?noframes;read=12575
As most of you know, to celebrate Seikoā??s involvement in the Tokyo Olympics, Seiko released a number of significant watches that have become some of our favorites in the vintage sports watch category
Here are some of them:
The first Silver Wave Diver
The Seiko 6217 Worldtimer
(Pic from Jayhawks database)
This huge 65mm Seiko Rattrapante Split Second Chronograph Stopwatch
Perhaps the most collectible and significant watches Seiko introduced in 1964 were the one button 571X Chronographs.
Most (all?) of the models pictured above were available in special Olympic versions easily identified by the Olympic flame logo on the caseback.
(pic courtesy of Jayhawks database)
Now in 2004, Seiko has introduced a new chronograph to commemorate the 40 year anniversary of the introduction of Seikos first chronograph.
At first glance, the 40th shows little resemblance to the original on which it is based. However, if one takes the time to closely inspect both models, they may develop a deep appreciation for the many subtle design cues that Seiko smartly incorporated into this anniversary model. Before we get into that though, lets talk about what will probably be one of the most controversial aspects of this watch.
THE MOVEMENT
While many may have preferred that Seiko use a 6S series movement as the basis of this watch, Iā??m not altogether disappointed that they didnā??t. The 9T82 is an extremely sophisticated high tech movement with nods to old school horology. The plates and visible parts all are finished quite well; all surfaces and edges are attended to, and it shimmers and sparkles in person in a way that the camera can not come close to capturing. Seiko also specifically engineered the 9T82 to ā??feelā?? like a chronograph when the functions are activated. And it does. Each pusher has a crisp firm click action and if you closed your eyes, youā??d think you were using a 6138.
The pushers have a nice sculpted design which complements the edges on the lugs.
Note how the lighting as changed the coloration on the "time" section of the dial. More on this later.
The movement contains over 350 parts and is apparently hand assembled by a select group of Seiko watchmakers. Besides the technology, the other controversial aspect of this movement is the dial layout. Some like, it, some tolerate it, and others hate it. Having owned a 9T82 chronograph in the past, (which I sadly had to sell to fund this purchase) I fall into the ā??fanā? category. After you live with it, you will come to appreciate the discrete sections of the dial and how they contribute to the overall legibility of the watch. When one is used to the layout, the eyes know exactly where to look for each function and there is never any hunting or tilting the watch dial to see hands and read dials that can sometimes become obstructed in a conventional chronograph layout. Surprisingly to me, the ā??timeā? section of my previous 9T82 was, with the exception of a Sinn 656 that I owned, easily the most legible and easily readable watch that Iā??d ever owned. I attributed this to the relatively large size of the hands in relation to the size of the dial. Iā??m not sure Iā??ll enjoy that same legibility on this version though due to the colors used on the watch, but I do see that the dial is designed in a way that allows the light to capture and highlight the time section of the dial. Itā??s a neat effect.
Okay, lets get on to some of the similarities between these two Seikos.
Starting with the time section of the dial, note how Seiko incorporated the look of the hands and markers into the dial. Also notice the identical font on the word "Chronograph".
One of the more subtle design cues Seiko brought over to the new model was the use of black outlined square markers. On the 5717, these are a prominent design feature of the dial at the five minute markers. On the 9T82 we seem them on the 1/10 second dial.
Seiko also used these little square markers on the Silver Wave dial in 1964.
The black ā??diver bezelā? on the original chronograph was used to measure hours or minutes on the 5717 when the chronograph was engaged. Having hour and minute hands on the reissue meant the incorporation of a dive bezel would have been redundant so Seiko preserved this design element through the black ceramic bezel. Also, note the sharp angles on the lugs and the similarities between the old and the new. Many of you will recognize this look from your Samurai Divers.
Seiko preserved the one button pusher appearance of the original watch through the signed crown on the new model which is designed to look like a pusher. Nice touch!
I hope you enjoyed those comparisons.
The bracelet on the re-issue is simply outstanding. Although I haven't worn or sized it yet, visually it is flawless with a buttery hefty feel. The clasp is a butterfly design and it is only signed unobtrusively on the inside. The lugs are 20mm and the endlinks are solid. Many of you have seen a similar bracelet design on some Actus' and 571X chronos in the past.
The packaging is my only disappointment with the watch. Not the actual box, which may be identical to the Yema box. It's the literature that disappoints. Included are just the standard Seiko warranty Booklet and movement manual. There's plenty that Seiko could have said about this model and it's provenance, but we get nothing.
Hopefully you've stayed with me up until this point. That's about all I can say about this watch right now as I haven't even worn it, and began the review as soon as I unpacked it. Admittedly, this is a very expensive Seiko, but I canā??t help but think of how fairly priced it is when one looks at the edition number of the model and compares the movement's technological sophistication to the multitudes of ETA modular and 7750 based chronographs; many of which cost inexcusably more. Quality is first rate on all levels and no lover of Swiss chronographs could disparage this watch on any level save for perhaps the name on the dial. In reviewing the pictures I've taken, I can see where the dial does not look nearly as crisp and sharp as it does through a loupe or in person. I've got a very old digital camera, and it was pushed past its limit on these pictures.
General Info:
Model # SBCG003
Case Width - 45mm
Lugs - 20mm
Thickness - 13mm
Crystal - Sapphire with slight dome...incidentally, this has got to be one of the largest Sapphire crystals I've ever seen. Off the top of my head the only ones which may be larger are those on the RXW Militaire and the Panerai on which it was designed.
| This message has been edited by wpetew from IP address 4.185.207.227 on Oct 17, 2004 6:42 PM This message has been edited by wpetew from IP address 4.185.207.128 on Oct 16, 2004 10:47 AM |
